Monument to Pioneers and Ancient Settlers

Quite close to the jetty where the cruise ships dock in Ushuaia, the southern-most city at the tip of South America (see the photo below of the port and city of Ushuaia) there is a very interesting structure called the Monument to Pioneers and Ancient Settlers (Monumento a los Pioneros y Antiguos Pobladores).

The design is truly beautiful - in the shape of a giant Albatross with its wings partly spread creating a semi-circular tranquil space within. The shape and its rendering manages to convey exactly what a pioneer or the first settler in an unknown country would be hoping to find - sanctuary, shelter and peace! See the two photos below.

It's when you get closer and see the decorations on the outer surface of the Albatross wings and in the inner space, that a tiny bit of dissonance starts building, especially if you are from a country that has experienced European colonial rule!

The decorations are meant to pictorially show the history of Terra Del Fuego - The Land of Fire as Magellan called it. There are pictures of Selknam (or Onawo) and their huts, of Yámana in their canoes (both indigenous residents of Terra del Fuego. It was the Yámana practice of lighting a community fire in all their settlements, every night that prompted Magellan to call this land, Terra del Fuego - the Land of Fire - when he saw a multitude of these fires lighting up the landscape as his ship navigated through what is today called the Magellan straits on his way to the Pacific ocean!

Then there are scenes of arrival of the Europeans in their schooners, pictures of the jail (which was what Ushuaia was originally - a town with the only purpose of incarcerating criminals in a jail), the train and the development of Ushuaia as a European colonial town!

When this monument was inaugurated in 2017, it was said that it represents the history which is "shared" by the original settlers and the immigrants who came here (That's why the name of the monument is "Pioneers and Ancient Settlers").

"Shared" ??

Of the "original" occupants of Terra del Fuego, the Selknam are an extinct tribe, they were systematically massacred by the gold diggers and farmers who came to Terra del Fuego and who usurped the habitats of the Selknam. The natives were plied with alcohol, deported, raped, and exterminated, with bounties paid to the most ruthless hunters. They were abducted and were exhibited in circuses in conditions of de facto slavery!

The Yámana (or Yahgan) too are now no more, after the last known full blooded Yámana and the last speaker of their original language died in 2022. But it was in the 19th century that the Yámana were largely decimated by the infectious diseases brought to Terra del Fuego by the Europeans against which the Yámana had no defenses. Those which survived the plagues, were thrown out of their lands by the European ranchers and settlers and hunted like animals just like they hunted other wild predators poaching their cattle and sheep. Only a handful survived because Anglican missionaries took some of them and resettled them on one of the islands of the Falkland group.

Such was the hubris of the European travelers who visited here that even a man like Charles Darwin describes them as and I quote "the miserable, degraded savages whom we first met here"

The monument is obviously silent on all this bloody and gory part of this "shared" history!

When you look at this beautiful monument once again - with this historical backdrop, you start wondering whether in fact this is a monument that celebrates the invaders, the colonizers, the robbers and thieves of the land that already had an owner, whether it is a monument that insults the original habitants by claiming that the lit fires in the their images on the walls of the monument, symbolize the union among natives and First Settlers.

On the rear side of the monument is a plaque paying ‘homage’ to the first 50 European settler families in the area, but none from the original inhabitants of this land are named. Perhaps because they are long dead and forgotten and when they were alive, they were not considered worthy of being included in the society!

There is a scathing critique of many of the monuments in South America called "Indigenous representation in public art" that calls out the colonial arrogance displayed in how the indigenous occupants of these parts are misrepresented in these monuments, that is worth reading. The link to that article is here -

https://michaelharrison.org.uk/2019/01/indigenous-representation-in-public-art-the-monuments-and-photographs/

The Mountain that Smokes

This is the spectacular journey from El Calafate to El Chalten in Argentine Patagonia - The pictures will speak for themselves ofcourse. The highlight of the trip was the amazing colors of the waters of two large lakes that the road skirts around, Lago Argentino, the largest lake in Argentina and Lago Viedma - sometimes sparkling blue, sometimes emerald green, and sometimes both hues at the same time.

The peak of Mt. Fitzroy (or Chalten) was shrouded in clouds when we reached the lovely little village of El Chalten but soon after the veil started lifting and we got at least brief glimpses of all those strangely shaped peaks in the Chalten range.

Most interesting (and something I didn't know) is one of the peaks is named after Saint-Exupery. The author of the endearing book Little Prince (if you haven't read it, you must, some day) this is the peak third on the left from the Fitzroy (Chalten) - the tallest peak in the range.

And just to make the day perfect came this soaring Andean Condor (forgive the quality of the photo - it was too far away to focus properly)

For a long time the native inhabitants of this area - Tehuelches - believed that this was a volcano, because the lofty peaks were always shrouded in plumes of white clouds. Their name for it El Chalten actually means Smoking Mountain. The European explorers who travelled through Patagonia were of course too arrogant to respect any local traditions, beliefs and cultures. So in a spree of renaming, All these peaks in the Chalten group were named after their friends, colleagues and bosses! 

In fact even the European explorers like Francisco Moreno who explored and mapped large parts of Patagonia thought this was a volcano. It was only in 1899 that a German naturalist Hauthal showed that the peak was solid granite and not a volcano at all. It was Moreno who renamed Chalten to Mount Fitzroy to honor Captain Fitzroy of the ship HMS Beagle who made two voyages to South America and beyond. Fitzroy was responsible for charting the Beagle channel (2nd of the three natural sea routes to go from Atlantic to Pacific. The 1st being Magellan Straits and the 3rd - Drake passage) and exploring large parts of what is today the Santacruz province of Argentina. On the second of these voyages he carried Charles Darwin on his ship. And you can read all about that in Darwin's book Voyage of the Beagle! So much for Fitzroy. 

But it is a spectacular sight, especially when the weather is kind and lifts the veils surrounding the peaks. The interesting thing about these peaks is ofcourse their shapes, almost like needles piercing the sky. As a result even though they are not very tall (Mt Fitzroy or Chalten - the tallest of them all is only a bit over 11000 ft), they have been very challenging to climbers. In fact Cerro Torre -little over 10000 ft only - in an adjacent group (not seen from where I took these photos attached below) has been called one of the most difficult peaks to conquer. The first recognized conquest happened as late as 1978 ( by which time most of Himalayan peaks, easily twice as tall as Torre, were sumitted multiple times). 

Lake Argentino

Lake Argentino is Perhaps the largest lake in Argentina. The reason I am saying "perhaps" is, it depends on how you define "large" - surface area, volume of water or whether it lies entirely within the country etc. Lake Buenos Aires may also be a contender for this title but half of it lies in Chile. So "Within" Argentina it will be smaller than Argentino!

Argentino lake area is about 1400 sq km. That is not actually very large - even Lake Titicaca in the Andes, a bit more to the north, is 6 times larger. Lake Baikal in Siberia is 20 times larger, Lake Superior in North America is 50 times larger!

But statistics apart, Lake Argentino is hauntingly beautiful - especially the color of its waters, deep blue to emerald green, was nothing like I had ever seen.

I only saw a brief green glint of it as our flight landed at the Armando Tola Airport in El Calafate, since I didn't have a window seat! And as we came out of the airport the road on both sides was bordered by drab, brown, arid hillocks, typical of the Patagonian landscapes. It's only when we turned in the drive-way of our hotel which was on top of a small hill that the sparkle of the waters hit me in the eye. It was late evening and sun was low in the west in an overcast sky causing the odd ray that had escaped through chinks in the clouds to make the water shimmer like emeralds. See the first photo.

For the next three days as we traveled around and on the cliffs overlooking the town of El Calafate, Lake Argentino continued mesmerizing us.

Lake Argentino was "discovered" by Valentin Filberg but he mistook it as a part of another nearby lake (Viedema) because the two are connected by a river La Leona that flows from Viedema into Argentino and so didn't name it. A bit later Francisco Moreno "found" it again and named it Argentino.

Actually it is quite amusing to read the accounts of these European travelers in the past centuries which claim to have "discovered" most of the world - North America was claimed by Columbus, Magellan claimed Terra Del Fuego, Bartolomeu Dias claimed Cape of Good Hope and so on. As if these were uninhabited regions and human beings were ignorant of their existence until the Europeans reached there! And to stamp their "ownership" the old names given by those who "discovered" them eons before, dwelt for millennia in the vicinity, of the lakes, forests, mountains and entire regions, were obliterated and replaced by European names. That's why Chomolungma became Mt. Everest and the peak of Chalten (A Tehuelche word meaning “Smoking Mountain", and once you visit there you will know how appropriate that is ) in Patagonia became Mt Fitzroy!

Anyway.

Lake Argentino is fed by several glaciers, the Perito Moreno glacier being the biggest of them

This second photo is of the glacier descending into Lake Argentino.

The quaint, beautiful town of El Calafate is on the banks of the lake and from the cliffs behind the town you probably get the best panoramic views of the lake - photos 3 and 4.

But it's a constant companion on the road if you travel around in the area say to El Chalten or to the glaciers like Moreno or Upsala, mesmerising you by all its different vistas. See photos 5 - on the way to the glaciers and 6 - returning from El Chalten.

and finally a bird's view from the flight as we left its shores to go to Ushuaia.

Mammisi - The Birth House

Many ancient Egyptian temples have an interesting adjunct called a Mammisi - a Coptic word, roughly meaning a "Birth house". Why would this small unpretentious structure thought to be used for child birth be a necessary and important part of the temple architecture? 

It appears to be a more modern addition to temple architecture dating from the Late and the Ptolemaic periods of ancient Egypt. Of course "modern" in the context of Egyptian history usually means older than a couple of thousand years at the very least 😀. But the standard template we see used in older temples (From the middle or the new kingdoms) like Luxor or Karnak does not have a place for a Mammisi in it. 

Most Egyptian temples centered around a holy trinity or triad - usually consisting of a god, a goddess and their son. Of course in different periods of Egyptian history, different gods and their triads dominated. In the old kingdom at Memphis (near present day Cairo) it was Ptah, Sekhmet and Nefertem, during the middle and new kingdoms in Thebes (present day Luxor) it was Amun, Mut and Khonsu and after that especially during the Late and Greek periods when Mammisi became an integral part of a temple, it was Osiris, Isis and Horus. 

The Mammisi - birth houses - were considered to be the place where goddess of the triad gave birth to the son of the triad, presided over by the goddess of fertility - Hathor. Since the son was usually associated with the reigning Pharaoh, the Mammisi thus symbolized the divine origin of the Pharaoh. I guess in the waning days of a once mighty civilization, for the weakened pharaohs any such divine "connection" must have seemed like a great tool to help continue their hold on power that was slowly slipping away. That may be why the Mammisi became such an important part of temples built during that period - Temple of Isis at Philae, at Com-Ombo, at Edfu, at Dendera and so on. 

The Mammisi was usually just outside the main entrance of the temple - a modest (compared to the Grandeur of the temple itself) hall surrounded by tall columns, reminiscent of old Greek buildings (Like the Parthenon) but shaped and decorated with unique Egyptian motifs like idealized papyrus stalks, the walls and columns richly decorated with the images of the reigning triad of the temple, the pharaoh being blessed by them etc. 

There would be an annual celebration of this divine birth in the Mammisi, thus reinforcing the Pharoah's divine connection and his divine right to rule! Mammisis thus formed an architectural translation of the myth of divine birth and its eternal repetition! The photos above are  from a trip to Egypt in 2018. First - the Mammisi in the temple of Isis, second - the detail of one of its columns - you can see the head of Goddess Hathor at the top and the idealized papyrus shaped column-head. Third the Mammisi at Edfu and last, a panel from Edfu showing Isis feeding the infant Horus and the Pharoah Ptolemy III Philopster making ceremonial offering to the gods.

The photos are not great because at that time I was unaware of the significance of Mammisi and therefore focused more the majesty and art of the main temples. The Mammisi photos therefore got taken only where it intruded inadvertantly in the frame!

Lugdunum : 50 BC and Now!

When you visit a place and keep your ears and hearts open, you will find that every stone has a story to tell - a story of intrigue, valor, cruelty, love or just plain fun. 

Sometimes these are true stories, sometimes they are fables and myths, sometimes they are pure fiction - flights of imagination of some creative writer  but hey, it's those stories - true or not - which breath life into even the dreariest of  landscapes. You only need to open your mind and ears and listen! 

I was in Lyon for some work and happened to go up the hill of Fourvière - rising from the maze of lanes in the old town. While finding and losing and finding again, my way through this maze, suddenly in front of my eyes the view transformed to this (see the photo). The way old Lyon - when it was Lugdunum - looked in my most favorite epoch in history, 50BC (at least as imagined by Gosciny and Uderzo!) 

50 BC is the period in which Asterix and Obelix roamed in the forests of Armorica thumping Romans and boars (the former for fun and the later for their dinner) with occasional "friendly" encounters with pirates!. 

Julius Caesar had said "Veni, Vidi, Vici" after the battle of Alesia (although no one knew where that was) and declared "ALL Gaul is occupied". That caused Gosciny and Uderzo to rise in indignation and exclaim "ALL?? My dear Julius you need to go to the hydro run by the druid twins Oculusix and Spectaclix and get your oculus checked". That started the tradition that continues not just in France but in all schools all over the world - of school kids painting a pair of spectacles in their history text books, around the eyes of all those great historical figures - Whether it's Julius Caesar or Aurangzeb or Alexander (See the second photo)!

In one their Roman thumping expeditions (See "Asterix and the Banquet") our heroes go on a tour of France (Gaul) visiting various cities to collect samples of local cuisines in those cities to hold a grand banquet in their village. The city of Lugdunum is one of those important stops. This is how Lugdunum looked when Asterix and Obelisk passed through it (the first photo). And this was one the rare times when instead of thumping the Romans and collecting their helmets as trophies, Obelix leaves them lost in the maze of Old Lugdunum's unnavigable streets! The colorful language you hear in the first photo is the Roman reaction to that, essentially saying that "we would rather be thumped by Obelix, than get lost in this infernal maze"! 

And this is how the remains of ancient Lugdunum look today (see 3rd and 4th photos - circa June 2011).

While walking through it I was trying to identify where the palace of prefect Poisonus Fungus must have been, where Asterix and Obelisk must have thumped the roman troops and how Jailibabix - their friend, must have got the roman garrison lost in the maze of the old Lugdunum ally-ways!

Lugdunum became one the most important cities and the provincial capital of the Roman empire in the 1st century AD. At its peak its population was estimated to be 200000. At least two future emperors of the Roman empire lived in Lugdunum - Drusus and his son Claudius (who was in fact borne there). Lugdunum became the center of political authority in the Roman provinces of Gaul and Germania, a commercial hub, and a patron of arts and artists (see the next few photos of artefacts recovered during the excavations at the site of the ancient city). 

Doesn't the first of these remind you of the famous "David" by Michelangelo currently in Florence! 

The present day Lyon is not as exciting as Asterix's Lugdunum of course. It's a modern French city like many other modern French cities where I had to skip three eateries (First a fast food burger joint, second a Pizza place and the third that served only coffee and pastries on a sidewalk) on a growling stomach while looking for a place to have some "French" dinner. It was an excellent dinner of course, worthy of the Lyonnaise tradition that had lured even Asterix and Obelix to travel all the way from Armorica to here to pick up local specialties for their grand feast!   

The last three photos are of present day Lyon

Lyon, France June 2011

Buddha's eyrie

While we were admiring the fantastic snow-clad landscapes of Spiti and chasing Leopards, Ibexes and Red Foxes in the valleys and on the towering cliffs around the village of Kibbar, we almost missed an ancient historic site which looks over the road going from Kaza to Kibbar. 

The Key (or Kee) Monastery - reputed to be more than a 1000 years old was founded by the sage Dromtön.  It can thus successfully compete for the honor of being the Oldest monastery in India with the Hemis monastery in Ladakh (also said to have been founded in the 11th century). 

Surprisingly, for an establishment that was set up to promote peace and harmony, the Key monastery has a rather violent past, almost like that of a mighty fort which kings may fight over for its strategic value!

For example, in the 14th century it was destroyed by armies of the Sakya sect of Tibetan Buddhism (aided by the Mongols) because Key belonged to the Gelugpa sect. In the 17th century the Mongols came back again and sacked the monastery during the reign of the 5th Dalai Lama. Then in the early 19th century it got caught in the cross fire between the kingdoms of Kulu and Ladakh and then a decade later it was raveged by the armies of the Dogra kings and shortly thereafter the Sikh armies sacked it.

But its followers must have been especially persistent and devoted. They kept rebuilding it again and again - even through its destruction by fire (1840) and a massive earthquake in 1975. 

Perhaps because of this turbulent past, its architecture resembles a fortress more than that of a temple! Walls thicker than your forearm's length, underground caverns (which are today used as meditation rooms), ramparts from which one can keep a watchful eye over the surrounding territory.

But with all that, it is a house of devotion and prayers. It is said to contain intact some of oldest written religious documents of Tibetan Buddhism. We saw row upon row of these documents on shelves running from the floor to the ceiling in some of the rooms. Only the most holy and revered members of the order can access them. And there are ceremonial readings from time to time.  Walls in several rooms also have fascinating old murals - how they survived the tumultuous past (if they did), I don't know. But according to the kind monk who showed us around, while some are knew a few of them are quite old. Unfortunately, no photography is allowed indoors, so we could only record these with our eyes. 

But most  fascinating of all is the location of the monastery - on the tip of a cliff that dominates the Spiti river and surrounding flatlands ringed by tall Gleaming white snow-clad peaks piercing the sky! The panorama that unfolds when you look out from the ramparts is spell binding. 

Here are some more photos - of  the surroundings.

कपाडोकिया

टर्की, सीरिया आणि इजिप्त ह्या तीन देशांना ख्रिश्चन धर्माच्या सुरुवातीच्या इतिहासात किती महत्वाचं स्थान आहे ह्याची मला अजिबात कल्पना नव्हती. सीरियाला अर्थात मी कधीच जाऊ शकलो नाही, तिथे सतत चालू असलेल्या मारामारी मध्ये कोण आपला जीव फुकाफुकी धोक्यात घालणार. परंतु टर्की आणि इजिप्त मध्ये प्रवास केल्यावर ख्रिश्चानिटीच्या तेथील प्राचीन पाऊलखुणांनी मला फार बुचकळ्यात टाकलं. 

कारण  रोमन सम्राट कॉन्स्टंटाईनने ३१३ साली काढलेल्या मिलानच्या फतव्यानुसार - ख्रिश्चन धर्माच्या पालनाचा अधिकार ज्यांची तशी इच्छा असेल त्या रोमन नागरिकांना मिळाला होता. त्यामुळे मला असं वाटत होतं की त्यानंतर पश्चिमेला सर्व युरोपभर त्याचा प्रसार झाला असणार आणि जेंव्हा १४-१५व्या शतकांपासून युरोपमधील राज्यांनी आपली सत्ता पूर्वेला पसरवली तेंव्हाच तो आशिया/आफ्रिका खंडात पसरला असणार. टर्की आणि इजिप्त मध्ये प्रवास केल्यावर ही समजूत किती चुकीची आहे त्याची जाणीव झाली. 

ख्रिश्चनिटीला खऱ्या अर्थाने राजाश्रय सर्व प्रथम मिळाला टर्की मध्ये - रोमन साम्राज्याची पूर्व आणि पश्चिम अशी दोन शकलं झाल्यावर, पूर्व रोमन साम्राज्याचा सम्राट थिओडोशियस ह्याने ख्रिश्चन धर्माचा स्वीकार करून बाकी सर्व पारंपरिक, धार्मिक प्रथांना बंदी घातल्यावर. परंतु सामान्य प्रजेमध्ये त्याही आधी ख्रिश्चानिटीचा प्रसार झाला असावा. तसंच अजून तग धरून असलेल्या पारंपरिक रोमन धर्माचे अनुयायी, ख्रिश्चानिटीच्याही आधी रोमन साम्राज्यात अधिकृत मान्यता मिळालेल्या ज्यू धर्माचे अभिमानी आणि नवीनच प्रतिष्ठा मिळालेल्या ख्रिस्ताचे पाठीराखे ह्यांच्यात आपलेच वर्चस्व प्रस्थापित करण्या साठी तीव्र स्पर्धा (प्रसंगी जीवघेणी सुद्धा) अनेक शतकं चालू असावी. कारण टर्की मध्ये फिरताना  ठिकठिकाणी - विशेषतः कपाडोकियाच्या डोंगराळ भागात ह्या सर्वांच्या खुणा, गोरेमीच्या गुहा किंवा केमाक्लीचे भूमिगत शहर (पहा पहिला फोटो गोरमी दरीचा) अश्या स्वरूपात आपल्याला आज दिसतात. त्यांची आपण ओळख करून घेऊच.  

पण त्या आधी पाहूया चौथ्या शतकात प्रस्थापित झालेला एक ख्रिश्चन मठ आणि त्याभोवतालचा एक अद्वितीय निसर्ग चमत्कार. 

त्या मठाची दंतकथासुद्धा  फार रोचक आहे. चौथ्या शतकात आजच्या सिरियातील (टर्की, सिरिया, इराक, जॉर्डन ही विभागणी युरोपच्या वसाहतवादाच्या काळात युरोपियन सत्तांनी आपल्या सोयीसाठी स्थानिक लोकांच्यावर लादलेली आहे) अलेप्पो भागात सायमन नावाचा एक ख्रिश्चन धर्मगुरू फार प्रसिद्धीला आला. तो अनेक प्रकारचे चमत्कार करतो अशी सगळीकडे त्याची ख्याती पसरल्यामुळे लांबलांबून लोकं त्याच्या दारात आता हा काय चमत्कार आपल्याला  दाखवणार अश्या आशेने गर्दी करू लागले. इतकंच नव्हे तर त्याने रात्रंदिवस नुसते चमत्कारच करावे - खाणे पिणे किंवा देवाची प्रार्थना असल्या फालतू गोष्टीत वेळ दवडू नये अशीही अपेक्षा करू लागले. कुठलीही गोष्ट रोजची झाली की त्याचा कंटाळा माणसाला येणारच - मग ते चमत्कार असोत की कारकुनी! 

ह्या रोजच्या कटकटीला कंटाळून सायमन-बाबा आपल्या काही शिष्यांसह अलेप्पोहून परागंदा झाला, आणि जिथे आपल्याला “चमत्कार करून दाखव” म्हणून वेठीला धरलं जाणार नाही अशी जागा शोधत आजच्या टर्कीतील  कपाडोकिया भागात पोचला.

कपाडोकियाच्या ह्या डोंगराळ प्रदेशातील चित्रविचित्र डोळे दिपवणाऱ्या आणि डोकं चक्रावून टाकणाऱ्या  नैसर्गिक खडक-शिल्पांची निर्मिती सुमारे २५ लाख वर्षांपूर्वी माउंट आर्चियेस ह्या ज्वालामुखीच्या उद्रेकातून झाली. ज्वालामुखीतून फेकल्या गेलेल्या लाव्हाचा तलाव थंड होताना मऊ दगड पायाशी आणि कठीण दगड त्यावरती अशी रचना झाली. आणि खालील मऊ दगडांची वाऱ्या पावसात धूप होऊन चित्रविचित्र आकारांचे दगडाचे शेंडे आणि खाली उंच सुळके असा हा संपूर्ण प्रदेश बनला आहे. पहा दुसरा आणि तिसरा फोटो.

उंच उंच सुळके ज्यावर चढून जाणे सराईत गिर्यारोहकांनाही जमणार नाही, उभे कडे पोखरून झालेल्या गुहा, थक्क करून टाकणारे दगडाचे विविध आकार, अश्या ह्या प्रदेशात सायमनने आपला मठ स्थापला.

आज Monk Valley नावाच्या ह्या ठिकाणी टर्कीला भेट देणाऱ्या प्रवाशांची जरी गर्दी दिसली तरी, सायमनने मात्र मुद्दाम येथे वाकडी वाट करून कोणीही यायची मुळीच शक्यता नाही, म्हणून इथे आपला पडावं टाकला होता. आणि जरी त्याच्या शिष्यांनी एका कपारीतील नैसर्गिक गुहांत मठ स्थापला असला (पाहा चौथा फोटो)

तरी तो स्वतः मात्र ह्या पाचव्या फोटो सारख्या एका उंच सुळक्यावर मचाण बांधून राहिला. 

अर्थात ह्यात मजा अशी आहे की "चमत्कारांपासून" आपली सुटका करून घेण्यासाठी तो अलेप्पोहून पळून जिथे आला, तो कपाडोकियाचा परिसरच एक त्याने स्वतः करून दाखविलेल्या सर्व चमत्कारांपेक्षा मोठा निसर्गाचा चमत्कार आहे. पाहा सहाव्या फोटोतील हे कातळ शिल्प.  - कदाचित मठातील दूध चोरून पिणाऱ्या मांजराला सायमन बाबाने शाप देऊन त्याची अशी शिळा करून ठेवली असेल !!! 

ह्या निसर्गाच्या कलाकृतींना यशस्वी आव्हान देईल असा मानवी स्थापत्याचा आविष्कार आपल्याला दिसतो केमाक्ली सारख्या जमिनीखाली बांधलेल्या  शहरात. त्याला भेट देऊ आपण ह्या पुढच्या भागात.